Save yourself the trouble that Thanos went through to get the Infinity Stones and just make your own. In this project, we take ordinary boring stones and turn them into bright colorful Infinity Stones that may or may not be able to control the universe.
- Silicone: Mold Star 15 Slow
- Clear Urethane Resin: Clear Casting Resin 16 oz
- CR2032 Battery Pack: Coin Cell Battery Holder
- Resistors: 2.2 Ohm Resistors, 1/2W
- LEDs (Red, Pink, Yellow, Orange, Blue, Green): 1W 300mA-350mA High Power LED
- Battery: CR2032 3V
- Oil Based Clay: Premium Grade Modeling Clay
- Clear Plastic Wrap: Plastic Wrap
- Clear Mixing Cups: 8oz Disposable Graduated Cups
- Stir Sticks: (Free at your local Starbucks)
- Hot glue: Glue Gun kit
- Soldering Iron: Soldering Iron Kit
- [Optional] Scale: Digital Scale
Many of the products used are Amazon affiliate links, and if you would like to help support Garage Art and future projects, tutorials, and videos please consider using the links above! Thank you!
Get Some Rocks
Step 1: Go outside
Step 2: Throw Gamora off a cliff
Step 3: Find Stones
By far the most difficult part of this project was finding some rocks to use. I usually buy everything online but Amazon is really lacking in rock selection. Luckily I was able to find a forum where someone suggested "going outside". I was pretty skeptical but I found some in my backyard. When looking for rocks, try to find six smooth stones all in a similar size. From a top view, the stones need to be at least 7/8" wide and 1 1/2" long to be able to fit the battery pack.
Prepping For the Mold of the Rocks
With your stones selected, they now need a flat bottom large enough to fit the battery pack. I used oil based clay to accomplish this, adding it to the bottom and attempted to match the shape and texture of each rock. While any clay* can be used, oil-based clay is ideal because it's non hardening, easily manipulable, and very smooth.
*If using another clay, be sure that it is sulfur-free to avoid any issues with silicone.
Once all the stones have a flat clay bottom, the next step is to create a waterproof container around the stone to contain silicone and make the mold. While any study flat material can be used for the base, I started with a 3" square piece of acrylic plastic as the base, to which I placed the stones. By warming up the clay, it became tacky and can be attached to the baseplate without the need for glue.
After you make sure that it is secure and there are no gaps between the base and the clay, we need to create a wall about 1" tall (at least 1/4" taller than your stone) around the rock.
I cut up and used a larger plastic water bottle for the wall, but it ended up warping due to the residual heat from the hot glue. So if you go with plastic, hot glue a test piece to ensure that it can withstand the heat without causing any problems. Another method would be to use thin cardboard or cardstock with packing tape covering the inside instead of plastic. Then tape your wall together, being sure you have at least a 1/4" space around your stone at all points.
No DIY project is complete without copious amounts of hot glue, so plug it in, go wait for it to heat up, and come back an hour later after completely forgetting you had it on. Now that your hot glue is definitely hot enough, run a bead of hot glue around the outside of the wall, gluing it to the base. If you're wondering how much hot glue to use "Less is more" is definitely not the case here. More is more. Hot glue is far cheaper than silicone (and not worth the headache of having a leak).
Making the Silicone Mold
With all six stones attached to the base plate and the wall secured by a second blob wall of hot glue, it's time to mix and pour the silicone. I used Mold Star 15 Slow silicone rubber, which is an expensive, but high-quality silicone. the amount of silicone needed depends on the size of the rock and how much room you left around the rock, but I found about 2 fluid oz per stone was the perfect amount. By measuring how much water it takes to fill your mold, you can get a more accurate measurement on the amount of silicone you need to use.
The pot life is around 50 minutes, so you have time to thoroughly mix part A and B. Before you pour check to see that your silicone is uniform in color and well mixed. To eliminated bubbles, pour the silicone in one spot on the base plate. Pouring from a higher height and keeping a slow steady rate will also help. Make sure that the stone is covered by at least 1/4" of silicone.
After four to five hours the silicone should be set, and the rocks can be removed. There may be some flashing or extra silicone covering the hole where the rock was, which can be removed using sharp scissors. There should be room to be able to fit the battery pack.
Soldering the LEDs
There is a hole in the bottom of the battery pack which needs to be covered, so I used a small piece of packing tape to cover it up (light grey square). This prevents resin from flowing up and filling the battery pack.
The blue, green, and pink LEDs require 300mA-350mA DC 3V-3.4V, while the yellow, orange, and red LEDs require 300mA-350mA DC 2V-2.4V. Because the blue, green, and pink LEDs can be powered by the 3V CR2032 battery, they can be directly soldered to the battery pack. The yellow, orange, and red LEDs need a 1/2W 2.2ohm or 3.3ohm resistor to be sure that the LED doesn't blow.
Preparing for Casting
To diffuse the LED and create a random texture look of the Infinity Stones, I used small pieces of bunched up plastic wrap. I used two pieces of plastic wrap, one larger piece to cover the entire stone, and a smaller piece directly in front of the LED.
With the mold, plastic wrap, LED soldered to the battery pack, and resin coloring, we're finally ready to make the Infinity Stones. I measured and found that an average of 6 mL fills the mold, so I measured out approx. 30 mL of part A clear resin and 30 mL of part B of clear resin. Using a scale can provide more accurate measurements. I mixed the resin and divided it into six different cups, one for each color. The colorant I used is called "So-Strong Color" and true to its name, very little is needed to tint the resin. I ended up finding that dipping the end a toothpick into the ink and then into the resin yielded an accurate color/ translucency. Depending on the colorant and resin, the results will vary, so it's always wise to make some samples and determine which method or colorant you prefer.
- Pour a small amount of resin to coat the inside of the mold
- Add the larger piece of plastic wrap
- Pour more resin
- Add the smaller piece of plastic wrap
- Pour more resin, bringing it close to the top of the mold (around 1/16th inch from the top)
- Place the LED battery pack
- Wipe away any resin overflow around the battery pack
Voila! Infinity Stones!
After an extremely long 24 hours of waiting, the resin should be fully cured and it's time to see the result of your hard work! If everything has gone well you should have your very own infinity stones and the power of the universe in your hands.
With the tight space for the electronics and the different colors this project can be tricky, so if your infinity stones didn't come out the way you want, try to see at which point it could have gone wrong. If the LED doesn't light up, check your solder job or the connection points with the battery. If the color tint is off, try adding different colors, or mixing colors. It took four or five tries before I got the process down, and many more prototypes before that, so don't get discouraged if something goes wrong!